Note to NZ: Invest in Guardrails!!!

Not that I needed any guardrails. If the road wasn't straight, I was going sloooowww. So yes, Ipicked up my awesome campervan in Christchurch and headed for the mountains. Operation maximize time in nature has commenced!

Except that it didn't start out with lots of nature; I stopped at Countdown since the campervan rental guy said they'd give me a coupon for petrol. I was taking my time to make sure I was buying lots of local products, and they decided to have a fire drill. Someday I'll send out the photos of their firetrucks that I took on my phone. So I was far behind my planned departure time, and I still had to fill up the tank and go to Warehouse, the NZ version of Walmart, and this was the Extra Warehouse, comparable to Super Walmart, except they don't sell ice. After getting a citronella candle, an extra fleece sweater, and a book, the Whale Warriors, I set off in the direction of Lake Tekapo. As it was getting dark and I was getting sleepy, I pulled off short of my destination into the Fairlie Holiday Park. Not much there so I sampled some of the Monkey Bay Rose I picked up at Countdown (delicious) and posted my first blog the next morning.

And since I was off to an awesome start, I thought I would make it better by going off 45 minutes in the wrong direction the next morning to Timaru instead of towards Aoraki Mt Cook National Park. Once I got back on track and muttered the phrase 'screw you Timaru' to myself quite a few times, I found myself at the lovely Lake Tekapo and had my first (of many) PB+J sandwiches. I played with the color of the photo since the lake was so blue, I like that the blue is really drawn out and you get a glimpse of another campervan-there are lots of them everywhere you go!

This is the real color of Lake Tekapo:



With car and tummy refueled, I made the journey up to my first Department of Conservation (DOC) sites, the White Horse Hill camping area, and got the upclose access to nature that for which I had been very much anticipating. This is the antiquified version of the view of Mt. Sefton from my van:

I also had immediate access for my tramp the next morning to the Hooker Valley trail which led to the duh, duh, DUH... Hooker Glacier! You can see the terminal face of the glacier at the other side of the lake under Mt. Cook. The entire glacier has a layer of dirt on top which apparently helps prevent excessive melting.



After trying the NZ version of Vegemite, Marmite, as it was recommended by campervan rental guy, (it was really gross-the marmite, not the guy), I headed to Queenstown. Stopped at a lovely fruit stand, but was more about the peach ginger jelly and chocolate covered honeycomb than the fruit.



I was driving next to this amazing gorge for a good portion of the trip, but I rolled into town, set up at the Creeksyde Holiday Park and booked some activities for the next few days.



First thing the next morning, I went to the gondola for the first paragliding run of the day. Literally, you run straight for the edge until you lift off. Wild! And I had a great realization while up in the air. All of those times on the swings at Hershey Park did prepare me for something in life. Paragliding! :) Except the views were a wee bit higher up and didn't include the Comet. :)

After such an exhilarating experience, it was hard to walk back to the campervan, but I pulled myself together and checked out the underwater observatory at the lake and walked around the city's gardens. I was still pretty enthralled by my paragliding experience that morning, so I chilled out over a Speights lager and wrote some postcards and went to Winnie's for a pumpkin, pine nut, and havarti pizza. yeah. that's right. uber deliciousness.

Since I was on a mission to save some cash, I stayed at another DOC site, this one at Moke Lake about 6km outside of Queenstown. Another amazing spot:

I left super early the next morning to make sure I made it to my pickup point at the holiday park for my day trip to Milford Sound. Taking the eco-bus was pretty awesome. The bus gave some insider info about the area, and stopped at a place I would have never found to see some rare birds, pukeko and mountain parrots. We also stopped in Te Anau where I had an amazing veggie pie which consisted of potatoes, carrots, and some magically delicious goo in a pastry pie shell. I had it with a long black coffee, the closest thing to a regular cup of joe, which is a shot of espresso with a lot of hot water added.

I took over 600 photos in less than 48 hours, so I'm having a hard time deciding what to post at this point. We stopped at some cool spots along the way, but we were driving with a ridiculous amount of waterfalls all around us since there was a lot of rain, and then there was the actual milford sound! so i'm just going to post a few of my favs from the day trip:

I stayed another night at the Creeksyde and made an awesome red wine tomato sauce with green squash over (what else) macaroni noodles. Yum! And the next morning as I was getting ready to roll out of town, finishing my egg, tomato, and avocado on Mackenzie Country multigrain bread (seriously when did i become a decent chef?), I ran into who other than, Melbourne dude from the Hooker Valley tramp 3 days ago. The campervan circuit is a very small world. He aparently made a really quick loop further south to Dunedin, Ivancargill, then back up to Queenstown, whereas I went directly to Queenstown. He was also on a Milford Sound cruise 2 hours before mine. So we chatted for a bit, and hopefully I'll have a tour guide in Melbourne!

Off I went to Wanaka hoping to avoid the impending doom of massive amounts of rainfall, but I had not left soon enough. I wasn't able to get in any more tramps, I mean hikes, I mean tramps. Oh dear. Anyway it was ugly outside, so I thought it best to keep driving and start planning a route to get out of the rain and potentially flooded West Coast and head east. I passed through Wanaka and eventually found a place to park for the night in Haast Pass, a small DOC site called Pleasant Flat, which was supposed to have nice views of Mt. Cook and Mt. Aspiring. Well as much as I aspired to see these peaks, it was not to happen. I did have a good sleep though with the sound of rain on the campervan roof.

I was hopeful for some penguins in Jackson Bay the next day, but the colony had gone to their unknown winter location already, so I kept on the road to Fox Glacier. I did stop for a quick nature loop tramp and just as I was pulling out of the car park, I saw some pukeko, some of the rare NZ birds I saw in the Te Anau Wilderness Reserve.

Again I had hoped for some outdoor activites, but the massive amounts of rain were causing flooding on the glacier access roads. Not cool! I parked at the Fox Glacier Holiday Park rather than continuing on to Franz Josef Glacier since it was much cheaper. I think this is around the time that I started reading The Whale Warriors or maybe I finished Chamber of Secrets. Either way I was planning to get to Hokitika the next day so I could have a few indoor activity options. It worked out pretty well. Picked up some jade scraps. Went to a wilderness center. Saw a kiwi, not a person, the bird. Fed some eels. I was pretty freaked out by this. They stick their heads (and necks? whatever) up out of the water and have some serious teeth, start waving their heads about since they know there's food somewhere. Oh man, thinking about it is giving me chills. Don't watch the Princess Bride if you plan on doing this anytime soon.

Also enjoyed the proximity to the beach of the Shining Star Holiday Park. Checked out the glow worm dell across the street. I went at dusk and there was no sign of glow worms, then all of a sudden there were little shimmers of light coming from under the shrubs. Couldn't really take a picture though since it was so dark and their lights were dim. But it was like a consellation on the earth at night under the leaves. Seriously cool.

Since I was getting grossed out by the weather and tired of hearing of how sunny it was on the east coast, I decided to make a break for it instead of checking out Pancake Rocks and Hanmer Springs further north. I made my way through Arthur's Pass and had some interaction with the keas, aka mountain parrots. Very cheeky fellows. I know they wanted me to feed them, but I held out on them, that is until they started attacking the tires on my campervan! I really didn't want to be stranded at the top of the this pass with a flat/eaten tire, so I threw my apple core away from the van. Success! I ran back into the van and hurried off before they could get at the tires again. At my next stop there was a big sign about not feeding the kea. They are endangered and need to rely on their regular food sources to survive. Yikes! But they were eating my tires!!! Pretty smart if you ask me. I hope I didn't do any damage though. At least it was an apple. Another guy was feeding them pringles.

Next stop: Arthur's Pass, the town, not the actual mountain pass. And guess what? MORE RAIN! I contemplated a 1.5 hour tramp to a waterfall, but I was tired of being damp and therefore cold, so I opted instead to fill up my water bottles and start searching for a camp site. I found some great places, but they were a little too close to the rising rivers for my taste. I ended up at a nice little place by Lake Pearson. It was just me and a hippy camper (seriously that's the campervan rental company name). Turns out there's a major wildlife sanctuary for lots of birds there. I got to see more diving ducks, regular (mallard?) ducks, and some rare geese like birds.

I found it hard to sleep without the sound of rain at night, but still got up with the sun to drive back through Christchurch to Akaroa on the Banks Penninsula. Ferry dude man said it was one of the best places to see Hector's dolphins, the smallest dolphin on the planet (about 4 ft long), which also happened to be endangered. So I got to see lots of them! Plus a seal colony, albatross, and two penguins (from far away). Hooray! And some cool volancanic rock formations and caves.

I hung out at the Akaroa Holiday Park and had another dinner of macaroni pasta with red wine sauce, this time with avocado and havarti and looked out over the harbor and watched the sunset over the hills. Not that I needed convincing but this settled it, campervaning is the bomb diggity.

I took off in the morning for the scenic drive around the peninsula, but it was very curvy with huge trucks going to pick up sheep or cattle. I don't know how they drive so fast but I was going super slow. I didn't want to miss my turn off for a few last tramps or accidently turn off the road! Super steep, and I think I saw 3 very short guardrails during all of my travels. I drove down off the scenic road and into Oakins Bay. Gorgeous. I guess I've been saying that a lot. But when you drive through the pine trees and end up on a beach, it's amazing. And I was the only one on the beach! I couldn't believe it. It was just me, some cows and sheep on the hills, and a few birds on the beach. I found a few purplish pink snails later. This might be as close as it gets to feeling like Dr. Dolittle.

It's not the first time I thought about Dr. Dolittle, considering there was a huge butterfly on my van and many great views of the moon (okay to follow the story accurately it's supposed to be a moth, but still). And now here I was with some large pink snail shells (their shells weren't nearly big enough for me to crawl into, but the largest I'd ever seen.) I sat on the beach to keep reading my Whale Warrior book. I was hoping to finish it before having to pack it for the flight to Melbourne (no luck there), but its a very intense book and highly recommended. So that's really it for the campervan portion of my travels. I drove back to Christchurch, made sure I had everything packed up and cleaned out the van, and hopped into a taxi to the Christchurch airport. I'm going to miss my awesome orange butterfly van. It took me lots of amazing places where I met some pretty cool people. Got to see the beauty of New Zealand up close including some serious wildlife. Dr. Doolittle wasn't there, and I didn't end up on the moon, but it was pretty close to being that awesome.

I'm writing a lot more than I thought I would. I seriously thought I'd just put up some photos to let everyone know that I hadn't fallen off the face of the earth, but I've been pleasantly surprised with my Kiwi adventures and definitely wouldn't mind coming back someday. An amazing place for sure. But now I'm looking to Australia as a place where I might get even closer to wildlife, especially those elusive penguins and get some more time to relax and downshift from perpetual tourist mode. I'm also going to work on remembering names, so as to not refer to people by their nationalities or vague titles such as dude man. Be posting hopefully from Adelaide before taking off to Tasmania on May 15th. Cheers!